Mumbai Still, Ramesh Forever

Ramesh is the head pro at the Maharashtra Lawn Tennis Club, a private club within walking distance of the Taj Mahal Hotel. The concierge had arranged for my entry to the Club where I was met by Ramesh. Since I arrived early, I watched a doubles games being run by Ramsey between four wheelchaired players. Same rules except two bounces are allowed.

Ramesh, a 45 years old authoritarian tennis coach appears to run the exclusive club. I was given little latitude in determining the format of our game-he called all of the shots. Naturally we were attended by a ball boy. After a suitable period of warming up, we started a set. Without question, Ramesh was a very experienced player, but after winning the first two games, my confidence strengthened. Ramsey won the next six games to win the set. Resting in the shade, I learned that he used to play on the pro tour. He now coaches the India Davis Cup team with his friend V.J. Armitrage, a world ranked player 20-25 years ago. The next set --6-0. I suspect that he tried to play just hard enough to beat me, but I wouldn't let him get away with that. I was invited to stay and watch the Davis Cup practice but I had a date with Mike's brother who runs the Mumbai branch of their Jewelry company. We planned to meet again today.

Jai, Mikes brother, picked me up around 3 p.m. and drove me to his shop, 10 minutes away. Saw a considerable stock of beautiful jewelry; bought some. Like his brother, Jai cuts the legs from under you when you try to bargain, convincing you that the price he is asking is rock bottom. Jai drove me back to the hotel and recommended some good restaurants in the area. On his advise, had dinner at Trishna, a seafood restaurant. It was every bit as good as Jai advised and at a price which was less than half of what the same meal would cost at the Taj.

Having received directions from the concierge, and it still being light out, I decided to walk to Trishna, having been told it was a 10-15 minute walk and provided a map. Walk I did, passing various lankmarks shown on the map but the map was not drawn to scale. It quickly grew dark and the streets, in seeming cooperation, grew narrow. As I pressed on, now and then asking passerbys for directions, I felt like I was walking into the black hole of Mumbai until I realized that there was not such thing as the black hole of Mumbai. I arrived safely At Trishna after a 20 minute hunt and the meal was worth the trip. Took a cab back.

This morning, I met Ramesh at the entry to the MLTC which was closed on Sunday. We cabbed it to the Churchgate athletic facility, a public facility not unlike Grant Park. There must have been 15 cricket games going on at the same time in the extensive open field. Ramsey had reserved a tennis court and we started in again with, of course, the ubiquitous ball boy. I noticed a kind of Ying-Yang, in that I could not stop myself, out of habit, from retrieving, a sometimes throwing the balls to the ball boy, which seemed to amuse Ramesh and to displease the ball boy. Should get used to it by the time I start playing at Birchwood. This time-6-3, 6-4. A hard forehand from Ramesh broke my stings; finished with his spare racquet.

Back to religion. The soul's immortality and rebirth through many different forms of transient being and the interaction of a whole pantheon of gods with humans are central to Hinduism. Hindus use the term "Dharma"to describe the essence of Hinduism. Dharma is religion, law, duty, faith and other virtues all rolled up into one.It presupposes a universal hierarchical model of life, animated by a religious spirit reflected by undying countless souls, each of which inhabits some body for a brief interlude which we call a lifetime. That soul then moves on to another body host, higher or lower along a continuum stretching from insect to divinity. Souls do not move along based on the "luck of the draw"; the next phase is dependent on the balance in it's Karma account in it's last body whose deeds may merit spiritual advancement or retreat. That is why Indians feel no pity for the beggar or untouchable and, presumably no envy of the King or successful businessman, whose fate has been earned. It never hurts, of course, to appeal to one or more of the gods, for aid, comfort or compassion or to give to the poor. The Karma account never sleeps. The ultimate however, is to do one's duty without complain or impatience, as best one can, to optimize thea successful rebirth or even better, to achieve Moksa. We might look at this as a release but Indians prefer to think of it as the liberation of the soul and not simply a poor tired body's extrication of the otherwise painful imperative of rebirth.

Coming around the turn. Early flight tomorrow morning to the city of Udaipur in the State of Rajahstan. Will miss the Taj Mahal Hotel where, like in Cheers, everybody knows your name.